The most important day of the year in Barichara, a colonial town in the Colombian Andes, is La Salida. When that day arrives, they are all in search of the precious hormigas culonas, or “big-butt” ants, that are considered the caviar of Colombia’s north-central Santander region. Each spring as millions of these ample-bottomed insects hatch in the surrounding countryside, the annual harvest frenzy ensues.